How to Identify and Fix Common Vacuum Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced Vacuum Technicians :
The bottom line is that Shop-Vac units shouldn`t be utilized without a filter. The vacuum will work without one, but it might not work better. Numerous other consequences might occur. You may create an even bigger mess than the one you needed to clean.
Look for the serial label with the model number on the front of the vacuum on the upper half.
Wet/dry vacuums can vacuum up large quantities of standing water very quickly. One way to know if the canister is full: the motor sound changes, indicating this its speed has changed.
When a dry vacuum collects water, the insides of the vac are prone to get damaged. The dry vacuum doesn`t provide as many functions as the wet vacuum as it can only suck up dry particles. The wet vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dirt, wet areas, or messy incidents like spilt stew you were going to have for lunch.
Wet vacuum cleaners tend to be more powerful and provide a larger storage capacity. Dry vacuums in turn have a enhanced particle filtration system to ensure efficient cleaning and trapping of accumulated dust and dirt in a better manner.
A dry vacuum system does not use water to generate suction. A wet vacuum needs significant water flow to generate suction.
Leave to dry
It`s important that your vacuum`s filters are COMPLETELY dry when they go back in the vacuum. Even a small amount of water running through an electric motor can be a Very Bad Thing.
Shop vac, and similar brands, have one hole for intake, ie to vacuum with, an the other hole is the blower output, which can sorta be used to blow stuff around. When you vacuum you pull in air , it has to go somewhere so it comes out the second hole.
CRAFTSMAN® corded and V20* cordless wet/dry vacuums are available in sizes from 2.5 to 20 gal. Models feature fine dust and HEPA filters.
To locate your product`s model number, simply find the product`s label showing UL listing information and electrical specifications. The model number is clearly marked and printed there. This label is normally on the back of the product.
Tip 2: Clearing leaves with the wet & dry vacuum blower
Sweeping leaves with a rake or broom takes strength and time. Anyone who wants to remove leaves from pavements, drives and on the lawn faster and more easily should switch to a wet & dry vacuum blower.
Initially, shop vacs were mostly used for industrial purposes. Nowadays, they are more customized with added features. Hence, they can also act as household items. On the other hand, home vacuums are only used in households and cannot be utilized for industrial purposes.
Mops are Dirty
A wet vacuum, on the other hand, actually removes 99% of soils, leaving the floor clean and free from the risk of cross contamination. The technology even does a superior job of cleaning all kinds of hard floors including uneven surfaces and grout lines between tiles.
Superior Suction Power Compared to Dry Vacuums
Due to the fact that they need to be able to lift water from carpets, furniture, and other surfaces, wet-dry vacuums have more powerful suction than dry vacuums do.
Wet only vacuums are designed to draw water into the cleaner through the hose.
Almost every shop vac has that option. Then simply turn it on and blow the leaves out of the garage. You can see that even with a small unit like this, it provides a pretty powerful stream of air, and it blew out the leaves in just a few seconds.
Many vacuums have not one but two filters. The pre-motor or air inlet filter can be found before airflow travels past the motor. This filter is designed to catch dirt and dust to protect the vacuum cleaner`s internal parts.
Since the filter is made of paper, you can clean it with water, but you should let it completely dry before reuse. You can also stock up and save by purchasing this filter in a two-pack. Want a pro tip?
To clean a foam filter, submerge it in water, squeeze it to allow the dirt to escape the foam, and allow it to air dry before putting it back in your vacuum. If you want the room to smell really nice next time you`re vacuuming, add a few drops of essential oil to the foam.
The suction on a shop vac relies on the strength of its motor. The strongest shop vacs have roughly 5-6.5 peak horsepower. Factoring in some other features, like the quality of the air filters and the size of the tank, sets these vacs apart from each other.
The Shop-Vac® 16 Gallon* 6.5 Peak HP** Wet/Dry Vacuum features the SVX2 Motor Technology. This motor has more power and longer motor life when compared to the Shop-Vac® standard 6.5 peak HP** motor.
Vac with a cartridge filter or reusable dry filter: If you are picking up large to medium size debris, you do not need to use a collection bag. If you are picking up fine debris, you need to add a high efficiency filter bag or HEPA collection bag to trap the fine dust.
Sewing machine Guru needed 😉
Elna Grasshopper (new to me) circa 1950
The light works, but there was no hummm when knee pedal engaged.
I have the motor out, and it is very stiff to turn. I’m at a total loss when it comes to motors and electricity. It doesn’t smell burned, doesn’t smell at all beyond normal machine smells. (Yes, I made detailed notes and diagrams as I took said motor out!)
One other note. The long thing which my husband said might be a capacitor — it looks like
I just purchased a fairly tidy Elna ‘Grasshopper’ sewing machine (1951) with the same leaking capacitor problem. I carefully removed the capacitor for examination. It is actually three capacitors in one – no chance of a direct modern replacement, but anyone with those three capacitors, a couple bits of insulated wire, and a small soldering iron should be able to shoehorn them into the same space. There is a circuit diagram printed on the side of the original capacitor, showing one 0,2 micro-Farad capacitor between the two mains power buses (the two wires from the top of the original capacitor which are soldered to the top of the two outer brass bars where all the wires attach), and following on from each of those a 0,0025 micro-Farad capacitor (so, two of those), the other side of both of those joined together and going to the chassis – representing the one cable from bottom of the original capacitor, which is screwed down. Easier than it sounds – I just have to find those capacitors. They must be NON-polarised capacitors, rated for 250 Volts, and I plan to use radial (rather than axial) style, aluminium type ones – very common. From what I can gather, I believe they are needed for that lovely little motor to run properly – to have torque (‘oomph’) at start-up.....
.As to the motor not wanting to turn… difficult to say from a distance. Could it be that the ‘brushes’ are sticking – or even worn out? There are two, top and bottom, that ride on the commutator – the ring of bronze-colored squares on one end of the motor, behind the wiring. They are made of carbon, are what power the motor, and are held with hidden springs. With much use they wear down, but I would not expect them to be completely gone. The upper one is easiest to reach – there is a brass screw above it – careful the spring doesn’t get away. Only other thing would be fouling of the bushings that allow the axis of the motor to turn. A little penetrating oil could help there. The motor should turn very freely.