Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum\015 I have a Sears shop vac, mod 113.172. The motor runs but doesn’t **** and there is a burnt smell. I was sucking up some leaves at the time the problem started. I think the hose became clogged and the motor over-stressed.\015
How to Identify and Fix Common Vacuum Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced Vacuum Technicians :
The bottom line is that Shop-Vac units shouldn`t be utilized without a filter. The vacuum will work without one, but it might not work better. Numerous other consequences might occur. You may create an even bigger mess than the one you needed to clean.
Look for the serial label with the model number on the front of the vacuum on the upper half.
Wet/dry vacuums can vacuum up large quantities of standing water very quickly. One way to know if the canister is full: the motor sound changes, indicating this its speed has changed.
When a dry vacuum collects water, the insides of the vac are prone to get damaged. The dry vacuum doesn`t provide as many functions as the wet vacuum as it can only suck up dry particles. The wet vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dirt, wet areas, or messy incidents like spilt stew you were going to have for lunch.
Wet vacuum cleaners tend to be more powerful and provide a larger storage capacity. Dry vacuums in turn have a enhanced particle filtration system to ensure efficient cleaning and trapping of accumulated dust and dirt in a better manner.
A dry vacuum system does not use water to generate suction. A wet vacuum needs significant water flow to generate suction.
Leave to dry
It`s important that your vacuum`s filters are COMPLETELY dry when they go back in the vacuum. Even a small amount of water running through an electric motor can be a Very Bad Thing.
Shop vac, and similar brands, have one hole for intake, ie to vacuum with, an the other hole is the blower output, which can sorta be used to blow stuff around. When you vacuum you pull in air , it has to go somewhere so it comes out the second hole.
CRAFTSMAN® corded and V20* cordless wet/dry vacuums are available in sizes from 2.5 to 20 gal. Models feature fine dust and HEPA filters.
To locate your product`s model number, simply find the product`s label showing UL listing information and electrical specifications. The model number is clearly marked and printed there. This label is normally on the back of the product.
Tip 2: Clearing leaves with the wet & dry vacuum blower
Sweeping leaves with a rake or broom takes strength and time. Anyone who wants to remove leaves from pavements, drives and on the lawn faster and more easily should switch to a wet & dry vacuum blower.
Initially, shop vacs were mostly used for industrial purposes. Nowadays, they are more customized with added features. Hence, they can also act as household items. On the other hand, home vacuums are only used in households and cannot be utilized for industrial purposes.
Mops are Dirty
A wet vacuum, on the other hand, actually removes 99% of soils, leaving the floor clean and free from the risk of cross contamination. The technology even does a superior job of cleaning all kinds of hard floors including uneven surfaces and grout lines between tiles.
Superior Suction Power Compared to Dry Vacuums
Due to the fact that they need to be able to lift water from carpets, furniture, and other surfaces, wet-dry vacuums have more powerful suction than dry vacuums do.
Wet only vacuums are designed to draw water into the cleaner through the hose.
Almost every shop vac has that option. Then simply turn it on and blow the leaves out of the garage. You can see that even with a small unit like this, it provides a pretty powerful stream of air, and it blew out the leaves in just a few seconds.
Many vacuums have not one but two filters. The pre-motor or air inlet filter can be found before airflow travels past the motor. This filter is designed to catch dirt and dust to protect the vacuum cleaner`s internal parts.
Since the filter is made of paper, you can clean it with water, but you should let it completely dry before reuse. You can also stock up and save by purchasing this filter in a two-pack. Want a pro tip?
To clean a foam filter, submerge it in water, squeeze it to allow the dirt to escape the foam, and allow it to air dry before putting it back in your vacuum. If you want the room to smell really nice next time you`re vacuuming, add a few drops of essential oil to the foam.
The suction on a shop vac relies on the strength of its motor. The strongest shop vacs have roughly 5-6.5 peak horsepower. Factoring in some other features, like the quality of the air filters and the size of the tank, sets these vacs apart from each other.
The Shop-Vac® 16 Gallon* 6.5 Peak HP** Wet/Dry Vacuum features the SVX2 Motor Technology. This motor has more power and longer motor life when compared to the Shop-Vac® standard 6.5 peak HP** motor.
Vac with a cartridge filter or reusable dry filter: If you are picking up large to medium size debris, you do not need to use a collection bag. If you are picking up fine debris, you need to add a high efficiency filter bag or HEPA collection bag to trap the fine dust.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
Have a Sears shop vac, mod 113.172. The motor doesn’t take in
ANSWER : THE HOLE THAT CATCHES THE SUCTION BALL CAN BECOME BLOCKED LETTING DUST GO THRU THE MOTOR.
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Hoover u5781-900, motor shuts off (intermittent)when you shake vac or make jerky movements.If you move vac to up right position the vac starts right up.When you giggle vac, motor starts and stops no mater if you just started up or vac for ran for 45 min. Thanks Lucy C.
ANSWER : Lucy
.you have a bad connection somewhere in the unit
.this is a fire hazard and you should not use this until its been fixed
.could be a pinched wire or broken connections
.you have a bad connection somewhere in the unit
.this is a fire hazard and you should not use this until its been fixed
.could be a pinched wire or broken connections
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Shopvac 90L400 quit working (4 years old). Thought the switch was bad but not the problem. I read that there is a fuse link in the motor that frequently burns up. I tried to take motor apart but not sure of the process. I was able to get to the motor but cannot pull it out of the armature. It appears I have to take the aluminum blower unit off the shaft (it appears to be pressed on with a retaining washer). Do I have to take it off to pull the shaft and motor assembly out? Is that where the fuse
ANSWER : By pass the switch and take power right to the motor leads.. that should tell you if the motor is ok.. have not seen fuse link on a vac motor.. graingers has new motors, but not inexpensive
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Shop vacuum float rises to shut off vaccuum immediately when turned on. Is using foam filter covered by Shop vac paper filter. Vac is shopvac 86L450
ANSWER : Click this link for video help
http://www.ehow.co.uk/videos-on_4811_care-portable-shop-vac.html
http://www.ehow.co.uk/videos-on_4811_care-portable-shop-vac.html
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Shop-vac model 90L550A motor wont run
ANSWER : Yes replacing the link would work, but that would not fix the cause. You have either pulled the wiring to the point of pulling apart the connection or there is a short. Which would be in the way of a grounding effect causing the link to heat and melt. A safty issue to be sure. Check all contact with housing and motor to make sure there is not an underlying problem to start with. Unpluged of course
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Bad Motor I have purchased two of the Kenmore direct drive beltless systems with Progressive systems. The first died after a year, the vacuum motor start making a grinding noies. I pulled the side HEPA filter and could see a fine coating of graphite like dust. Took it to a vacuum repair shop. They said the brushes were going and thus the motor was shot. I liked the vacuum and bought a second, 1 year later the motor is making a slight noise that and removing the HEPA filter I find a slight metall
ANSWER : That dust is from the carbon brushes on the motor. You may need to check them, and also clean out the motor compartment. A slight noise could be a motor bearing starting to go. Does the smell like rubber or electrical. If rubber, then the belt has stretched and needs to replaced. If electrical, then something is causing the motor to run hot, like a clogged filter, or it could be a motor going bad.
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Kenmore canister vacuum model 116-25512506. It has a 2 stage switch on the handle, the vacuum motor will not work, the carpet beater attachment does work, the vacuum motor will not cut on at all with either stage, 1st stage is vac only, 2nd is vac a carpet attachment. Carpet attachment will work, vac does not.
ANSWER : Try to find the reset button. It should be somwhere near the bottom area. It looks like a red dot that you can push inward. If you can press and hold the reset button, it will restart your suction and solve your problem.
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
Sewing machine Guru needed 😉
Elna Grasshopper (new to me) circa 1950
The light works, but there was no hummm when knee pedal engaged.
I have the motor out, and it is very stiff to turn. I’m at a total loss when it comes to motors and electricity. It doesn’t smell burned, doesn’t smell at all beyond normal machine smells. (Yes, I made detailed notes and diagrams as I took said motor out!)
One other note. The long thing which my husband said might be a capacitor — it looks like
ANSWER : I just purchased a fairly tidy Elna ‘Grasshopper’ sewing machine (1951) with the same leaking capacitor problem. I carefully removed the capacitor for examination. It is actually three capacitors in one – no chance of a direct modern replacement, but anyone with those three capacitors, a couple bits of insulated wire, and a small soldering iron should be able to shoehorn them into the same space. There is a circuit diagram printed on the side of the original capacitor, showing one 0,2 micro-Farad capacitor between the two mains power buses (the two wires from the top of the original capacitor which are soldered to the top of the two outer brass bars where all the wires attach), and following on from each of those a 0,0025 micro-Farad capacitor (so, two of those), the other side of both of those joined together and going to the chassis – representing the one cable from bottom of the original capacitor, which is screwed down. Easier than it sounds – I just have to find those capacitors. They must be NON-polarised capacitors, rated for 250 Volts, and I plan to use radial (rather than axial) style, aluminium type ones – very common. From what I can gather, I believe they are needed for that lovely little motor to run properly – to have torque (‘oomph’) at start-up.....
.As to the motor not wanting to turn… difficult to say from a distance. Could it be that the ‘brushes’ are sticking – or even worn out? There are two, top and bottom, that ride on the commutator – the ring of bronze-colored squares on one end of the motor, behind the wiring. They are made of carbon, are what power the motor, and are held with hidden springs. With much use they wear down, but I would not expect them to be completely gone. The upper one is easiest to reach – there is a brass screw above it – careful the spring doesn’t get away. Only other thing would be fouling of the bushings that allow the axis of the motor to turn. A little penetrating oil could help there. The motor should turn very freely.
.As to the motor not wanting to turn… difficult to say from a distance. Could it be that the ‘brushes’ are sticking – or even worn out? There are two, top and bottom, that ride on the commutator – the ring of bronze-colored squares on one end of the motor, behind the wiring. They are made of carbon, are what power the motor, and are held with hidden springs. With much use they wear down, but I would not expect them to be completely gone. The upper one is easiest to reach – there is a brass screw above it – careful the spring doesn’t get away. Only other thing would be fouling of the bushings that allow the axis of the motor to turn. A little penetrating oil could help there. The motor should turn very freely.
Read Full Q/A … : Shop Vac 925-13 Canister Wet/Dry Vacuum
