Hoover SteamVac Carpet/Upholstery Deep Cleaner Vacuum\015 Water is pouring from the bottom of the cleaner when turned on.\015
How to Identify and Fix Common Vacuum Problems ?
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.The Machine storage tanks are 2 – one clean water, one dirty water.
.I understand that, when OFF, no leaks happen.
.I understand that when on a leak comes from “the side”. Also, water comes from the bottom.
.So, water comes out near the bottom brushes (even without trigger). Then, with trigger, MUCH water comes out near bottom brushes. Am I correct so far?
.Water out the side concerns me. I am guessing that the bottom of the clean storage tank may have a small leak.
.I am also guessing that the trigger valve (located in the small opening behind the black rubber seal that the clean water tank rests on) is not closing all of the way – or is broken (cracked).
.Can you please remove the clean water tank and inspect the trigger valve with a torch (flash light). Can you see it open/close as you operate the trigger? Is it broken, cracked, or dirty?
.If yes then it must be replaced. If no, the the storage tank is bad and must be repaired.
.You inspect all of these things and you should be able to determine the failure. THEN, I an help you repair the failed item.
.-Jim (Raleigh, NC – USA)
You’ll need a Phillips & Flat Screwdriver, some light machine (3-in-1) oil or Lithium (white) grease, and a lot of patience. Having a pan or something handy to keep all the little bits organized would help.
First remove both the soap & recovery tanks, they’ll just get in the way & are designed to be easily removed & replaced for filing/dumping. Be sure to fold the “wings” for the recovery tank in or they’ll foul removing the cover later (as will the brush speed button).
The tricky part is getting the Brush Speed knob off. It’s held on only by friction, but can be tough to pull for without breaking the plastic stick it’s pushed onto.
Remove the brushes. There are 4 blocks between the outer & next in rollers. Put the flat screwdriver between the gray & clear plastic, pushing gently toward the brushes. This pushes a wedge away far enough from a hole in the gray plastic to “unhook” the brush housing from the main body. Once all 4 are clear, the brush assembly should pull out easily.
Remove the 2 big screws in front of the brushes and the one at the back of.the clear plastic front of the vacuum bit. The small ones at the extreme front corners hold on the clear plastic front, and can be removed if you want to clean out the vacuum channel, but are not necessary to remove to remove the top.
Toward the back sides of the top are 2 slots that hold this part on. Once the front screws are removed & the front is loose, push the side in gently & you should be able to lift the back of the cover. Push in lift both side, the top should pop right off.
Now I have the top off, holding 2 black & 1 silver long screw. In the center-front of the new-exposed guts is a box with a round top & a cone at the front with 2 screws.
This is the Brush Motor Assembly, and it’s actually vacuum-powered. Remove the 2 screws holding down the from, then look for 2 large holes on the bottom of the unit behind the black “squirter bar”.
There’s very long screws at the bottom of these holes that also hold down the brush motor.Once the 2 bottoms screws have been fully loosened & the top-front screws removed, the brush motor should pull up easily.
On the right is a square port, in front the the brush speed stick (where the gray button pops onto). on the left is a gray & black hose, these should pull off easily, but may have some liquid in them.
Pull out the brush motor & set it on a convenient spill-resistant work surface upside-down. You should see the square-hole drice for the brushes, a gray piece of plastic, & a cresent-shaped hole.
The port at the front & hole on bottom provide an air path for the vacuum to poll air through this assembly & spin the brushes. You should see 2 screws at the back of the motor & 2 more at the bottom of holes surrounded by the gray plastic. Remove all 4 screws.
You can now pull off the bottom cover with the gray plastic. Front to back you should see the brush drive gear, an intermidiate gear, ant one of the bearings for the fan that drives the whole thing. pulling out the bearing & gears to clean out this area & lube up the gears with some Lithium Grease helps, as well as making sure the bearing is well lubed with 3-in-1 oil and/or lithium grease.
The top is held on at this point with 4 platic clips. The top doesn’t need to be removed unless you *really* have to see the fan. The clips can be broken off if one is not careful, and there’s nothing in there to be lubed. Best to leave it as-is.
At the top of the driveshaft is a second sealed bearing. I couldn’t figure out how to get it out without braking it, lube this one in place. The bearings are supposed to be sealed, so removing the black “washer” from the bearing is done completely at your own risk. I just put some oil on there, spun it to work it in, then repeated with the white grease.
Replace the intermediate gear, the brush drive gear, then the lower sealed bearing in that order. You can spin the gears to ensure they’re spinning well. Mine was OK, but after a bit of use worked the grease in & the brushes really started spinning.
Keep in mind everything here except the screws is plastic, be creful to get a snug fit with the screws without overtightening. “Gorilla-ing” the screws will just break the plastic & make the whole adventure an exercise in frustration.
Reattach the bottom plate with all 4 screws, 2 in the holes in the gray plastic, 2 in the back.
Reattach the gray & balck hoses to the left side of the brush drive. They’re 2 different sizes, so there’s only 1 place the smaller hose will fit easily. Place the assembly back in the machine & replace the 2 screws in the front.
Flip the machine up so you can put the 2 really long screws back into the underside of the brush drive. There’s 2 guide slots on either side, make sure the brush with the indicator wheel on top goes into the big hole on the right. You may need to spin the brushes a bit to get the center squure stick to line up with the hole in the drive gear. The brushes should pop back in easily if everything’s lined up right.
Put the top cover on, making sure the Brush Speed stick & center screwhole line up, as well as the back sides snap into place.
Screw down the top, then flip the unit up so you can snap the bottom-front of the top over the gray wedges on the front, then screw into place.
Replace the Recovery Tank, fill & replace the solution tank, and test-drive.
This video may help you
.Hoover Steam Vac Spin Scrub Carpet Cleaner won’t…
.Posted by hoofbeats1 on Jul 01, 2008
.My machine is a little more than a year old. I have used it about 5 times. It started leaking the third time I used it. The fourth time I took it out, the brushes would not spin (I did clean them and rinse them after use each time).
Now the engine screams and won’t **** anything up. Do you have any suggestions? My last Hoover Steam Vac was great and lasted for 3 years! Hi,
I have a Hoover Dual V SteamVac F7425-900 that the brushes won’t spin. The lint screen is clean & the brushes switch is in the on position.
It dispenses & sucks up the cleaning solution & water; just no brush action. Help
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure. The only thing that I can recommend is that you may have a bad switch, some vacs may have a broken belt or the drive mechanism inside the Hoover Dual V SteamVac F7425-900 in or by the brush assm section and is need of repair. Please check the trouble shooting section of the owner’s manual if you’re needing help and to save money. If you don’t have one then contact the Hoover factory cust serv. So, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
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. Thanks, Don the Vac Man
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