How to Identify and Fix Common Vacuum Problems ?
Our sources include academic articles, blog posts, and personal essays from experienced Vacuum Technicians :
Check for a plugged hose
Plugged vacuum hoses are sometimes the reason for a loss in suction. Hoses can get clogged with hair, dust bunnies, string, or anything else that can`t pass through the other end of the hose. Airways inside the machine should be looked at as well. Wherever there is an air passage, check it.
The most common cause of excessive sparking is an old motor that is beginning to fail. The armature is blackened, pitted, and scared with build up. The brushes may still have life (are longer than 3/16 inch) but the armature, sometimes spurred on by a not-so-tight bearing, is being damaged.
Shop vacs fill up and get clogged quickly, particularly in dust heavy locations. Once they start to fill with dust they stop providing as much suction, and can overheat quickly.
Check that the vacuum cleaner is plugged into a working power outlet and that fuses and breakers don`t need resetting. An activated thermal cut-out due to a blockage is the next most likely cause of the problem. Check for blockages in the hose and filters, and remove any obstructions that you find.
If your vacuum was working fine and then suddenly shut off, it may have overheated. Most vacuums are equipped with a thermal protector safety switch that won`t allow the motor to run when it becomes overheated. You will need to wait for 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on your machine, to try again.
The vacuum switching valve (VSV) which controls the vacuum supply to the actuator is normally closed and passes vacuum to the actuator when it is energized by the ECU. By energizing the VSV vacuum is passed to the actuator, closing the air control valve. This effectively lengthens the intake manifold run.
If your motor brushes are sparking, it may be a sign excessive brush wear, a damaged or dirty commutator, or an incorrectly installed or incompatible brush. Some sparking is normal within a tool, but if it starts to get worse, it`s likely a sign that the carbon brush is wearing.
A strong odor from the shellac that coats the copper coil windings is an indicator that the motor is about to or has burnt out. If the motor is still running, even if it turns on and off by itself as it is heating and cooling, you can still run the motor until it gives up for good.
But a shop vac has two holes. One hole near the top permits replacement air to enter the container. When a hose is attached to this hole, dirt and debris can be sucked into the container. Air circulates out another hole to equalize the constant airflow in the shop vac and keep the motor cooled as it`s being used.
If there is something that has become caught in the hose in another part of the system, the airflow will be reduced and can cause overheating and a shut down. Clear out hoses, attachments, and brushes of any hair, dirt, and debris. This will allow for restored airflow and should get things going again.
Overheating usually occurs because the dust bag has not been emptied, filter has not been cleaned or there is a blockage in the floor tool, wand or bent hand piece. If your vacuum shuts down unexpectedly, make sure you turn the vacuum off and unplug it from the wall socket.
They`re mostly not rated for continuous use, unlike full HVLP dust extraction systems so expect to see limited motor lifetime when run for many hours continuously.
Vacuum solenoid valves, also known as Electro-pneumatic pressure converters, Electric switch over valves or Boost control solenoids are used to control many systems of engines by controlling actuators – for example, variable geometry of the turbocharger, EGR valves, various bypass or throttle valves etc. [1-3].
Another reason the vacuum is not turning on may be that the circuit breaker may have tripped. Check the breaker on the unit and if it continues to fail it usually means the motor is going bad. Another reason can be the bad signal from the unit to the wall inlet.
Problems can occur when overused or clogged filters cause the vacuum motor to overheat. This not only shortens the motor life but causes a loss of suction. In some cases, total motor burn out can occur.
The most common problem with a vacuum cleaner is also the easiest to remedy: clogs in the hose or attachments. Also the electrical cord, motor, switch, fan, brushes, and motor bearings can all need repair or replacement. The drive belt may need replacing; and the attachments, hoses, and filters may need unclogging.
The suction power is to be measured at the end of the tube of a complete vacuum cleaner (i.e. with tube, hose and filters – but without nozzle). Some manufacturers show the results from measurements made at the suction of the actual vacuum cleaner.
The average life expectancy of a mid-range vacuum cleaner is about six years. You can fix or replace things like blocked filters, jammed brush rolls, frayed hoses, worn-out stick vac batteries and broken accessories yourself.
Vacuum switches can have an electro-mechanical or solid-state switch construction.
A valve that controls the passage of vacuum according to temperature, blocking vacuum until a certain coolant temperature is reached, at which point it opens.
An effective vacuum cleaners use high-quality motors that provide sufficient suction and generate from 3.5 to 8 amps of current. Several factors, including motor size, suction level, and flooring material, affect the amount of electricity required to power the machine.
The spark is called as Arcing. When the plug is connected to the outlet, it might spark because the contact area is not enough and the electrical current comes. So, you might observe tiny damaged traces on the plug. It is normal.
Gaps like these can occur when you`re just about to plug in a device or when you`ve just unplugged it. For a split second, the prongs are close enough for the electrical current to reach, and when it makes that “jump” or “arc,” you`ll see a small, brief spark. This is normal and not cause for concern.
Suction motors on most vacuum cleaners typically draw seven to twelve amperes (amps) of current from the electrical power source. (Twelve amps is the maximum permitted for any appliance which plugs into a standard household electrical outlet.