e s catch, can you tell me exactly where it is and what it looks like. i have looked all over this thing. thanks randy the model # is 8905
Bissell 1699 ProHeat Clear View Upright Steam Vacuum
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The PCV valve allows air to be drawn through the engine`s crankcase, using the vacuum of the intake manifold to do so. The air enters through the crankcase vent side and then is sucked into the intake manifold. This helps draw out moisture from the crankcase.
A typical catch can plugs into a hose running from the top of your engine`s crankcase to the intake manifold.
The oil catch can is necessary for direct injection engines. In port-injected engines, the fuel is sprayed into the intake manifold, and it works as a cleanser. It washes off the oil and reduces debris build-up.
An oil catch can is a canister that is installed, or spliced into the intake system between the positive crankcase ventilation valve and the intake manifold, and its function is to “catch” excessive amounts of oil that might be present in the intake system before it can enter the cylinders.
A clogged hose or PCV system or inoperative valve can increase oil consumption because pressure builds when the vapors in the crankcase aren`t allowed to flow into the combustion chambers. That additional pressure can force oil past seals and gaskets.
A catch can is an addition to the breather hose between the PCV & the intake system. This breather hose from the PCV is disconnected from the air intake and either replaced or connected directly to the input of the catch can.
The oil catch can is placed between the pcv valve and the crankcaseOpens a new window. The excess oil collects in the catch can, which must be periodically emptied and rinsed. Although there are some commercial oil catch cans available, some people create homemade models from old food jars or steel wool.
Catch can legalities
Catch can`s are 100% legal, and on some well designed diesels they actually come as standard.
Your car`s engine has a very intricate way of taking care of itself. For example, when oil blowby occurs, the engine is set up to recirculate the oil through the engine again, however, that can lead to power loss over time unless you install an oil catch can.
Curing the nonexistent problem of oil blow-by with a catch can, which pressures up the system and blows a seal, allowing sump oil to escape could have the nasty feedback effect of catastrophic engine failure, and you will not be covered by warranty.
Even with meticulous maintenance, sludge build-up is inevitable. Therefore, the best way to keep a CRD diesel engine running at its peak performance always is by using a Ryco catch can. A catch can separate oil, hydrocarbons, soot, and condensation from the crankcase gasses, making the recirculated air cleaner.
“Yes, I would definitely recommend a catch can. Now, the main issue is when the oil and the EGR gasses mix and it turns into this crusty looking stuff. The next problem you have is that the oil vapour goes through the whole system. You can actually get a build up of it, particularly in your intercooler.
Although its never recommended to drive any longer than you should with a damaged component, driving 12 hours with a damaged PCV valve could be very risky.
A stuck closed PCV valve results in excessive crankcase pressure. It forces oil past the engine`s seals and gaskets. A stuck open PCV valve or leaking hose results in a large vacuum leak, a rough idle, and drivability issues like surging.
An oil catch can will not add any power to your vehicle, which is why it`s so often overlooked. However, an oil can will ensure you always have a clean intake, keeping your engine running better for longer and ensuring you don`t lose horsepower over time.
It leaves an oily residue throughout your vacuum and intake system which can over time clog valves, sensors, etc. This is particularly dangerous for boosted cars, as it can cause your blow-off/bypass valve or wastegate to stop functioning properly, or in some cases at all.
They can significantly improve performance by catching residual oil and preserving the valve and intake manifold from contaminants. They can also improve fuel economy by capturing oil that would otherwise be burned in the engine and recirculated back to the crankcase.
Yet if modified, the addition of a catch can is almost mandatory to ensure a healthy, equalized crankcase atmospheric pressure as well as a clean, uncontaminated intake charge – which will result in greater engine efficiency and thereby, increased acceleration and horsepower.
Catch can legalities
Catch can`s are 100% legal, and on some well designed diesels they actually come as standard.
When your PCV valve is malfunctioning, it throws the air to fuel mixture out of balance and can lead to poor performance and rough idle, as well as misfires. In the very short term, these issues should not damage your car, but if you don`t fix the issue, you can do lasting damage, so it`s best to get it fixed promptly.
Catch can legalities
Catch can`s are 100% legal, and on some well designed diesels they actually come as standard.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
S catch i have taken the top part of handle off, removed the screws under hose wrap, and layed the bottom part of handle down, i cannot find the s catch, can you tell me exactly where it is and what it looks like. i have looked all over this thing. thanks randy the model # is 8905
ANSWER : 
.
.Just pull where I marked, it should come loose.
..Just pull where I marked, it should come loose.
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HI, I’m trying to find a part for a Sharp upright vacuum. Its the back part of the handle where the cord is stored. I have taken it off but can’t find any part # on it. The model number for the vacuum is EC12TWT4. I was thinking that if I could find a free owner’s manual, that would give me the part # and then I could look for it on the net.
ANSWER : Any vacuum repair shop should be able to get it
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I have a Dyson DC-17 and the top of the cyclone has hair and other debris jammed in the ports. It has 6 six screws holding the parts together and I can only get access to 4 of the screws. The bottom piece appears to be removable, but I can’t figure out how to remove it without damaging it. If I can get this piece off, then I have access to the other 2 screws. Can you tell me how to remove the bottom piece? Thanks in advance.
ANSWER : The instructions on how to dis-assemble your DC-17 are somewhat lengthy and it is quite helpful to have pictures and videos handy while you are doing it. Normally I would give the instructions here, but due to the amount of info that is necessary to guarantee you don’t have any issues I will give you a webiste that clearly explains the process. On the right hand side of the page are a number or links to pictures and videos that will make the process far easier. Here is the website:
http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_6762001_disassemble-clean-dyson-dc17-cyclone.html
Follow the instructions to the point that you are at. Take a look at the videos so that you have a clear idea before you start the dis-assembly. Should you have any problems with the material please let me know.
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I broke the handle part of the shark steamer #53101. I don’t have the book to try to tell you the parts I need. Can you send me a picture or a copy of the steamer. It is purple. The above number may not be the correct one. It is broken in the center part. It has a little small circular piece that joins the two pieces which are broken. The beginning of the handle at the bottom of the steamer and the next session which has the steam release. The top of the handle is okay . It the middle and bottom
ANSWER : Hi,
Ann there are very few parts for these…
Ann there are very few parts for these…
Here is a tip that I wrote about the Euro-Pro Shark Steam Mop and why it maynot be getting steam to the head…
Euro-Pro Shark Steam Mop Problem
Here also is a link to get any of the Shark Manuals that you need.
heatman101
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Filter I bought this Hoover a few years ago– just now about to use it first time. I cannot find my user’s manual and don’t know how to change the filter– or to clean it or whatever I am supposed to do with it. Also, there is a handle on one side of the unit that seems to be attached to an empty chamber or canister kind of thing. It looks like it should pull out, but it does not budge. I really would like to have a manual, but can’t seem to find one. Is there a similar model that is still
ANSWER : This is not for the exact same model, but should help you out:
.http://edge.maytag.com/epipubs/56511B47.PDF
.http://edge.maytag.com/epipubs/56511B47.PDF
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My vacuum hose has split very close to the handle- how do I remove the handle, cut the hose at the split & reattach it to the handle unit – Centralux central vacuum system. Where can I find a diagram of how to remove the handle?
ANSWER : Do Not Cut the hose!
It has wiring inside to control the vac and power head. This is a swivel handled hose with both low and high voltage contacts in it. The same wiring which gives the hose its ribbing, is conducting current for two applications,
If your hose has a switched handle, a very experienced, trained AERUS Electrolux tech will a have a tough time doing this job and will likely refuse as it is not recommended per company policy.
You can purchase a shrink wrap tube which will prolong the life of the hose if it has not collapsed, however this is a short term fix.
I could walk you through this as I have done it before …Unfortunately, even if you were able to dismantle the hose successfully you would not be able to purchase the wire terminals which you would cut off the end when shortening . Sorry its a proprietary part.
It has wiring inside to control the vac and power head. This is a swivel handled hose with both low and high voltage contacts in it. The same wiring which gives the hose its ribbing, is conducting current for two applications,
If your hose has a switched handle, a very experienced, trained AERUS Electrolux tech will a have a tough time doing this job and will likely refuse as it is not recommended per company policy.
You can purchase a shrink wrap tube which will prolong the life of the hose if it has not collapsed, however this is a short term fix.
I could walk you through this as I have done it before …Unfortunately, even if you were able to dismantle the hose successfully you would not be able to purchase the wire terminals which you would cut off the end when shortening . Sorry its a proprietary part.
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On the DC07, the entire cyclone assembly must be removed to empty the dust, debris, etc. collected when vacuuming. On the top of the cyclone is a “trigger” that you lift with your finger to release the bottom catch, which allows a clear flap to open on the “clear bin,” thus letting all the debris fall out. My problem is when you lift the finger trigger, it does not release the catch on the bottom. Since the catch won’t release, I cannot remove the entire clear bin either from the cyclone.Any sug
ANSWER : Beofre you go to the extent of buying a replacement canister, you can remove the top and using a straightened coat hanger type thing open that bottom lid. Then maybe you can clean the rim and possibly add some silicone spry to loosen things up. Here’s how to get inside In this order: 1) Remove the canister 2) remove the three star screws at the top of the canister. It’ll take a bit of pressure to pull the top up, there’s a rubber seal. When you pull it up there will be a rod running down into the canister, leave it be, just pull up the top high enough to clear out any debris. 3) Use a straightened coat hanger and with a flashlight to guide you, reach down with it and push it into that hole down at the bottom center of the canister. That will pop the lid open. Clean the canister & lid rims, maybe add some silicone. At this point you might as well clean the canister too. OPTIONAL-> ***leave the bottom lid open*** and follow the rest of these steps 4) Put the top back on aligning the screws, when you lower it make sure the bottom of the rod engages with the hole at the bottom center of the canister, this is why you left the bottom lid open. Put the three star screws back in. 4) Turn the canister upside down, lid open, and keeping in mind this is thin plastic, gently tug upwards on the four fins that surround the bottom rubber seal. This part is held in by friction, so work your way around the four fins gently pulling until you work the ring they’re connected to free. This will give you access to the inside of the canister. 5) remove the round perforated section by tugging upwards on it, set it aside with the fin part. 6) Take the canister to a laundry tub or large sink and holding it bottom up fill it with hot/warm water. Grasping the center section shake it vigorously and turn it upside down while shaking and a bunch of sh*t will come out. Repeat several times. 7) Dry thoroughly, you might use a hairdryer held to the center tube, but only if you can switch off the heat and use air only. Make sure its 200% dry, water will kill your machine 8) clean and replace the round perforated section 9) replace the fin section, I’d suggest pulling the round rubber part off of the fin part and setting it in place on the canister first, then follow with the plastic fin part. If you don’t do it this way the rubber won’t seat properly and the bottom lid won’t close. 10) Close the lid, replace the canister, and staaaaaart suckin like it’s brand new.
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Lost Part I have a 6.5 hp 18 gallon shop vac ultra pro. There is a part that goes into the inside of the tank and screws into the collection hose that attaches it to the tank. This part accidentally got thrown away when someone dumped it and now I cannot attach the hose to use the vacuum. Can this part be purchased separately?
ANSWER : I found a manual online for the shop vac and found the part number. Did locate part online.
.Thanks,
.Thanks,
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