Electrolux Vacuums\015 Suction does not transfer through the hose\015
How to Identify and Fix Common Vacuum Problems ?
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Plugged vacuum hoses are sometimes the reason for a loss in suction. Hoses can get clogged with hair, dust bunnies, string, or anything else that can`t pass through the other end of the hose. Airways inside the machine should be looked at as well. Wherever there is an air passage, check it.
Take the pot off of heat and drop your suction cups in for about 30 seconds. Take them out with a pair of tongs and pat them dry on a lint-free towel. Try to use the suction cups right after you dry so they`re still warm and flexible.
The most common symptoms are a lack of power or rough idling; both these faults may be intermittent.
Relevant Questions and Answers :
the most relevant questions and answers related to your specific issue
.Remove the sole plate turn the 3 plastic screws to unlock & lift off.
.Now remove the blockages that have accumilated from the oppening of short clear hose.
.Check you can turn brush roller & check belt.
.Now reassemble switch on pull handle back & look under machine is brush spinning ?
.If not check the knob on side of machine is in drive (D) position.
Just six months after the warranty expired, I was vacuuming when it suddenly stopped. There was no blockage in the tube and it wasn’t working hard or long . . . it just stopped.
I looked around the Internet and it appeared that many similar Electrolux units have a fuse. I hoped my problem might just be a blown fuse, so I took the machine apart.
There are two small printed circuit boards, but no fuse. There is an in-line
.I don’t think you need a new motor, but please stop testing the machine with live power. It’s dangerous and unnecessary. Your tests indicate to me that the motor is fine and your thermal-fuse – I think this is what you referred to as “thermatrol” is blown. I assume you used an ohm-meter to test the continuity across the brushes? If so, and the reading was 0 ohms accross the brushes, then your motor is fine. Also, the 120v reading at the motor terminals with the power on shows that you are getting power to the motor. The reason there is no continuity at the motor terminals is because this circuit is routed through the “thermatrol”. If the thermatrol is open-circuit, i.e. blown there will be no continuity here.
.If you need parts, I can probably help you find a supplier, but let’s establish which parts need replacing first! Please confirm the resistance readings from the brushes and we’ll go from there, but no more live testing please, particularly the 120v A/C direct to the motor from the wall socket!
.I eventual gave in to curiosity and removed the three screws in the top or the yellow removable dust collection tube and cyclone bit to see what was in there. The mechanism to release the flap at the bottom of the collection tube does not allow you to remove the lid completely but it does open far enough to get inside. I found the whole top section of the yellow plastic bit blocked by a big plug of compacted dust and a champagne cork. If you are willing to take the risk and have a torx 15 screwdriver handy it that part may be blocked. It did get a bit messy.
.If I was going to attempt the same procedure I’d remove the dust collection unit from the vacuum cleaner as I did before, but leave the clear tube attached and the emptying flap firmly closed to reduce the mess from the dust falling out the bottom while cleaning the top part.
.If the motor dosen’t start, the cheepest way to start is to buy a new switch and install yourself. Just make sure where the wires go. The single terminal is to the front and the two terminals to the rear. The black wire goes to the front single terminal, the red wire goes to the far back terminal and the blue wire goes to the front back terminal. The suction motor should come on first and then the power nozzel. If not in that sequence,reverse the blue and red wires.
.If that fails, take it to the Aerus/Electrolux shop.